mardi gras mambo

MQE and I met and married in N'awlins. I was a grad student at Tulane U., and he was on a three year voluntary recall to active duty with the Navy. The last time my family was all together was in N'awlins for our wedding..six months after which my father died, slipping away also while I was in N'awlins. I was honored to be a part of a pretty dynamic graduate department at Tulane, extremely humbled in the experience, and made some of the closest friends I have ever made in my life while there. During my first Mardi Gras, I lived two blocks off of the Vieux Carré, and while madly typing away on a paper for class on Lundi Gras I heard gunshots; my next door neighbor was shot and killed in a drunken argument with a "friend". I was waist-deep in a current of water on Broadway Street in a tropical storm, trying to find my car that was flooded to the steering wheel, dodging street-kayaking fraternity boys along the way. Two weeks later, MQE and I were in that same car, just returned to us, evacuating to Memphis a category-5 Hurricane Georges that, in the end, turned east at the last moment and slammed Mobile instead. We experienced days with no water, what was at times sporadic electricity, life next to the Audubon Tavern II--as well as the charm and the history that St. Charles Avenue, the Audubon Park and Zoo, the Garden District, the waterfront, and the various cemetaries offer to all. The Vieux Carré Ghost tours, the Ann Rice goth groupies, "I can tell y'all where ya gotcho shoes", beignets at the Café Du Monde, Masses at St. Mary's of the Ursuline Convent, endless walks along the Mississippi River, the stark realization that the tops of the houses are actually lower than the level of the water on the other side of the levees, knowing that drunk drivers are the only who drive straight because all sober people know where to swerve to miss all the potholes, the drive-through daiquiri stands, Jazz Fest in its sweltering sweaty dusty glory, great culinary delights found in Jaquimos Lola's Mona's Nirvana--our favorites--, Saturday morning bagel dates at CC's on the corner of Magazine and Jefferson, gay pride, Louis Armed-and-Strong Park...all of these images contributed to the cacophony of memories that inundated us as we watched in horror as this city, where we met and fell love, that witnessed so many of our huge Life Changes, filled with water, what I remember being our greatest fear.

We experienced three Mardi Gras celebrations during our years in N'awlins. We were fortunate to get to know wonderful people who lived right on the corner of Bourbon and St. Ann, so we could experience Mardi Gras as it was meant to be experienced according to the locals--as a part of a family. We were embraced by the city, and have never yet forgotten its kindnesses.

This week I wear my beads with great pride. I have earned the right to wear them. I wear them for all those friends of ours who are still there trying to put their lives back together. Laissez les bons temps rouler, y'all! I will do a second line in your honor, and teach my children to do the same.