The 温泉 onsen Natural Hot Springs

四万温泉中之条町
Shima Onsen, Nakanojo-machi

As I lived in a highly volcanic region (well, where in Japan wasn't volcanic? But at least I was in the mountains) I was surrounded by famous natural hot spring resorts on all sides: 伊香 保 Ikaho、水上 Minakami and 草津 Kusatsu hot springs were all within an hour drive of 中之条, so I quickly mastered the art of taking the 温泉 hot spring bath. This was painstakingly explained to me the first day I had been hiking with my Papa-chan and 公ーちゃん Ko-chan. We hiked to the top of a local landmark at the end of my first week in 中之条 then went to 四万温泉 Shima onsen. There was a little place where they separated from me and went into the men's side, and I went, alone, into the women's side. There were two little old ladies who came in right behind me.

As I sat, naked, on a little cane bucket wondering exactly what I was supposed to do naked in this tiny bathhouse made out of what appeared to be bamboo (oh, and did I mention I was naked?), the little ladies came chittering over and sat on either side of me. Quickly surmising my lack of ability to speak their language, they began to show me what I had to do (of course, being Japan, everything has its order, and it is rather strict).

First, sit on bucket (or if plastic stool is provided, on stool) in front of shower heads or faucets.

Second, wash hair. Use either shower heads or pour water over head using buckets provided.

Third, wash body. This could be done never standing up, of course, with some pretty sleek maneuvers of the little dishtowel-sized washing cloth you either bring to use or are provided with.

Fourth, if still feeling the need for mild discretion, take the washing cloth and wring it, then hold over your front as you walk over to the bath.

Here you often had to decide if you wanted to go into the inside 温泉 or the outdoor pool, known as the 露天風呂 rotemburo, as most 温泉 in my area had both. It was not unusual at all to bare all in sub-zero temperatures to go and sit in hot water while snow fell around me. In fact, those are some of my absolutely fondest memories.

Then, as the water gets too hot for you and your blood starts to almost literally boil, you must get out of the water. You can, again, discreetly pull yourself onto the rocky side of the pool of water and cover certain unmentionable areas with your now-seemingly-very-tiny washing cloth, or you could just keep that cloth folded atop your head à la Japanese and proudly let it all hang out.

I got good at the "letting it all hang out" part.

It is perhaps from my 温泉 hopping years that my narcissism that still haunts me developed. I would most often than not sit in front of a mirror to watch myself bathe, comments would come from young and old alike (especially since the 外人 body structure is quite different than the 日本人 nihonjin Japanese) about my "nai-su boh-dee" and I began to enjoy watching myself bathe. Well, they must have those mirrors there for some reason other than to ensure you properly washed all the soap off everywhere...right?

I never went to a コンニョク konnyoku (I forgot the characters!) same-sex 温泉 although I had opportunity. Now, looking back, I wish I would have just to have something to write about. I was too angelic then...JA JA JA.

After bathing as long as you could and turning lobster-red in the process, you go back and shower off, then take that same little towel / washing cloth you've been using all along, wring it until almost dry, and use it to dry yourself off. Yeppers, that is your drying towel as well. Who ever said the Japanese aren't efficient?

温泉 lifestyle became addicting to me. I would seek out opportunities to actually strip down to absolutely nothing and bathe in the nude with a bunch of strangers, who also happened to be naked. Since Japan I have been to only one hot spring, which lies at the base of Machu Picchu in the town of Aguas Calientes in Perú...but that most certainly was not the same.

In Japan, 温泉 bathing was, as are so many other activities Western culture sees in a different light, an art form. Almost could be considered one of the Buddhist paths to Enlightenment...温泉道...hmm, I like that idea. Profound moments of deep thought and supreme bliss could overcome a person while bathing in the 温泉. Almost orgasmic...but as we were a bunch of naked women bathing, I wouldn't go quite that far.

The 温泉 would feel just as good in the heat of the summer as it did in the cold of winter. There was a refreshing feel to the natural waters; indeed, 沢渡温泉病院 Sawatari onsen byouin Sawatari Hot Spring Hospital was located in my town, where chronically ill patients from all over Japan would flock for treatment from the waters rich in minerals from the belly of the Earth.

Of everything about Japan that I miss (excluding individuals), it is perhaps the 温泉 that I miss most.